Every home should have a minumum of one fire extinguisher, situated in the kitchen. Better still is to put in fire extinguishers on each level of a home and in every potentially hazardous place, such as (besides the kitchen) the garage, furnace room, and workshop.
Pick fire extinguishers with their size, class, and evaluation. "Size" refers to the weight of this fire-fighting chemical, or control, a fire extinguisher comprises, and generally is roughly half the weight of the fire extinguisher itself. For ordinary residential use, extinguishers two and a half to five pounds in size usually are adequate; these weigh five to eight pounds.
"Class" refers to the kinds of fires that an extinguisher can put out. Class A extinguishers are for use only on ordinary combustible materials like wood, paper, and cloth. Generally, their charge is composed of carbonated water, which is cheap and adequate for the job but quite dangerous if used against dirt fires (the pressurized water may spread the burning grease) and electric fires (the water flow and wetted surfaces can become electrified, delivering a potentially fatal jolt). Class B extinguishers are for use on flammable liquids, including grease, oil, gasoline, and other chemicals. Usually their charge consists of powdered sodium bicarbonate (baking soda).
Class C extinguishers are for electric fires. Most contain dry ammonium phosphate. Some Class C extinguishers contain halon gas, but these are no longer manufactured for residential use because of halon's adverse influence on the earth's ozone layer. Halon extinguishers are recommended to be used around expensive electronic gear such as televisions and computers; the gasoline blankets the fire, suffocating it, then evaporates without departing chemical residue that may ruin the equipment. Another advantage of halon is that it assembles to hard-to-reach areas and around obstacles, quenching fire in areas other extinguishers can't touch.
Many fire extinguishers contain compounds for putting out mix fires; in fact, extinguishers classed B:C as well as ARC are more widely available for home use than extinguishers designed just for individual kinds of fires. All-purpose ARC extinguishers usually are the best option for any household place; however, B:C extinguishers put out grease fires more effectively (their charge of sodium bicarbonate reacts with fats and cooking oil to form a moist foam that smothers the flame) and so ought to be the primary choice in a kitchen.
"Rating" is a measurement of a fire extinguisher's effectiveness on a given type of fire. The higher the score, the more successful the extinguisher is contrary to the class of fire to which the rating is assigned. In fact, the rating process is a bit more complex: evaluation numbers assigned to a Class A extinguisher suggest that the approximate gallons of water needed to rival the extinguisher's capacity (for instance, a 1A rating indicates that the extinguisher works and about a gallon of water), whereas amounts assigned to Class B extinguishers indicate that the approximate square footage of fire which can be extinguished by a mean nonprofessional user. Class C extinguishers carry no ratings.
For security within an entire floor of a house, purchase a relatively big extinguisher; for example, a version rated 3A:40B:C. These weigh about ten pounds and cost approximately $50. In a kitchen, select a 5B:C unit; these weigh around three pounds and cost around $15. For increased kitchen security, it is probably better to buy two small extinguishers than just one larger version. Kitchen fires generally start small and are easily managed by a small extinguisher; smaller extinguishers are more manageable than larger ones, particularly in confined spaces; and, because a partly used extinguisher has to be recharged to prepare it for additional use or substituted, having multiple small extinguishers makes better sense.
A 5B:C extinguisher is also a fantastic choice for shielding a garage, where dirt and oil fires are most likely. For assignments, utility rooms, and related locations, obtain IA: lOB:C extinguishers. These, too, weighs around three pounds (some weigh up to five pounds) and cost around $15. In all cases, buy just extinguishers listed by Underwriters Laboratories.
Mount fire extinguishers in plain sight on walls near doors or other possible escape routes. Use mounting brackets created for your purpose; those attach with long screws to wall studs and allow extinguishers to be immediately eliminated. Rather than the plastic brackets that come with many fire extinguishers, think about the sturdier marine brackets accepted by the U.S. Coast Guard. The correct mounting height for extinguishers is between four and five feet above the floor, but bracket them as large as half an hour if necessary to keep them out of the reach of young children. Don't keep fire extinguishers in cabinets or elsewhere out of sight; in a crisis they're very likely to be missed.
Buy fire extinguishers that have pressure indicators that enable you to check the condition of the charge at a glance. Inspect the gauge once a month; possess an extinguisher recharged where you purchased it or through your local fire department if the judge suggests it's lost pressure or after it's been used, even if only for a few seconds. Fire extinguishers that cannot be recharged or have outlasted their rated life span, which can be printed on the tag, must be replaced. In no case should you keep a fire extinguisher more than ten years, whatever the maker's claims. Regrettably, recharging a more compact extinguisher often costs nearly as much as replacing it and may not revive the extinguisher to its initial condition. Wasteful as it seems, it's usually better to replace many residential fire extinguishers as opposed to have them recharged. To try it, release the extinguisher (the contents are nontoxic) into a paper or plastic bag, then discard the bag and the extinguisher from the trash. Aluminum extinguisher cylinders can be recycled.
Everyone in the household except young children should practice with a fire extinguisher to learn the technique if a fire breaks out. A fantastic way to do this is to disperse a large sheet of plastic on the ground and use it as a test area (the contents of the majority of extinguishers will kill grass and blot pavement). To operate a fire extinguisher correctly, stand or kneel six to ten feet from the fire with your back to the closest exit. (If you cannot get within six feet of a fire due to smoke or extreme heat, do not try to extinguish it ; evacuate the house and call the fire department.) Holding the extinguisher upright, pull the locking pin from the grip and aim the nozzle at the base of the flames. Then squeeze the handle and then extinguish the flame by sweeping the nozzle from side to side to blanket the flame with retardant before the flames go out. Watch for fires to renew, and also be ready to spray again.
Chimney Fire Extinguishers
If you run a fireplace or wood-burning stove, continue hand two or three oxygen-starving sticks, available at fireplace and woodstove dealers. In the event of a chimney fire, tossing the sticks to the fires will quickly quench a fire inside the chimney flue or stovepipe. Evacuate the home and call the fire department immediately in any circumstance. To know more information click fire extinguisher supplier